Melissa Clark's Extra-Sharp Leeks Vinaigrette

A few weeks ago I read of a new recipe. "Extra-Sharp Leeks Vinaigrette" by Melissa Clark in the NYTs. She described it as "bright and jolting, but still satiny and sweet from the leeks". It sounded like a new flavor combination I would enjoy, and it was based on ingredients I tend to have around the kitchen.

I'll admit I did not follow the recipe exactly. I had thought my experience with leeks would allow a few moderations in the cooking technique. About 6 months ago I was cooking a leek based vegetable soup almost every Sunday night. It was a nice end to the weekend as I went into a zen mode while cleaning, chopping, and stemming whatever vegetables I had in the fridge. The veggies were steamed in batches depending on time needed to soften and then put into my Cuisinart, mixed with spices, and topped with roasted tomatoes with cheese or sautéed cabbage or petso. I'd bring the soup for lunch and throw whatever meat I had recently cooked in too.

As it got warm I lost interest with the soup, but had learned to deal with leeks. First, remove the darkest green parts and stem. Slice lengthwise into quarters, open, and let sit in a pan of water. Run your hands through the water pan and remove whatever dirt is sticking to the leeks. Rinse the leeks a few times under running water and plop onto a towel or spin through a salad spinner to dry. Once they are mostly dry, steam for 5-7 minutes until they are soft but have not fully changed color. And then have your way with them.

So back to the recipe which calls for cleaning the leeks but keeping them mostly intact and then tying them up before boiling them. My problems with this method are twofold. First, I did not feel like hunting for string and then having to free the leeks after cooking (yes, I am lazy). Second, I though boiling them might remove more of the flavor than steaming (from my days of soup making). So I cooked the leeks for the dish my way than made the vinaigrette with a small modification. I do not have red-wine vinegar. I currently have three types of red balsamic vinegar and one white balsamic vinegar (super friggen good) and feel somewhat silly about the occasionally suicidal jar that jumps from my cluttered counter when it gets jostled. So I substituted equal parts red balsamic and red wine for the red wine vinegar. That works right?

Unfortunately, the finished dish just tasted like cooked leeks with mustard. It was not a transformative dish - the type you make with 5 random ingredients that makes you and your guests go wow. For my tastes the mustard was too strong while the leeks were too weak. I realize I got this dish under an article on how strong mustard can be, but for me the balance was not there. I think if I randomly decided to make this dish again I would try the bundling and boiling as suggested and maybe purchase the correct vinegar. Heck, perhaps i will actually follow the recipe as written. Or I will sautee the leeks in the olive oil with some other seasonings (rosemary?) before adding some mustard. Or, if I have a hankering for leeks, I'll just make soup.

Extra-Sharp Leeks Vinaigrette
(Adapted from Melissa Clark, NTY 050907)

5 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, roots trimmed, halved (quartered) lengthwise and rinsed
5 tablespoons hot Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice (I just squeezed all the juice from a lemon)
1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar (or 1/4 tsp red wine + 1/4 tsp balsamic vinegar)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper.

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Reunite leek halves; bundle leeks and secure with kitchen string. Simmer until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and unbundle leeks. Let cool.
(Or: steam leeks, covered, over boiling water for 5-7 minutes. Poke with a fork for softness)

2. Whisk together mustard, lemon juice and vinegar. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Slice each leek half lengthwise into thirds. Toss with vinaigrette, to taste. Extra vinaigrette will keep in an airtight container in refrigerator for up to 1 week. (Note: If you happen to forget about it, don't try sniffing it 10 days later. It will not smell good.)
Yield: 4 servings.